This photo shows the finished class 108, as in service on Wibdenshaw. Not everyone will find this 'conversion on a budget', to their taste, but the Wibdenshaw fleet is conventional variable 12v controlled. The fleet controller has no use for on board lighting or sound, prefering to concentrate on reliability, maximum availability, and prototypical running in a realistic environment. I have great admiration for the new wave, of all singing and dancing rolling stock, but every item of stock on Wibdenshaw covers thousands of scale miles every year at shows and at home. The maintenance of track and wheel cleaning is of paramount importance, and all locomotives have multiple wheel pickup for reliability.

The Bachmann motor bogie before works commences. The pickup strips can be seen inboard of the wheels, and are in contact with brass bushes mounted on the axles. The stub wheels fit into a central plastic gear, which also acts as an insulator.

The bogie frame is easily removed by inserting a screwdriver as shown, and levering downwards towards the bogie. Once unclipped, the bogie frame can be lifted clear of the motor bogie assembly.

The wheelsets are located onto the motor bogie assembly by the brass axle bushes, and can be easily pulled free from the assembly. The pickup strips extend upwards into the body, and make rubbing contact with the onboard PCB. These strips also act as stablisers on the non powered bogies, but can cause a dead short if retained, when using standard metal axles.

At this stage, the body should be removed from the chassis, by undoing the one screw, which is located next to the non powered bogie.

Additional locating clips hold the body in place, and these can be released by easing the bodysides outwards slightly, starting at the cab end.

The motor bogie can now be removed by undoing the top pivot screw (mounted on the top of the cast weight), and drawing the bogie out from the chassis by disengaging the drive shaft. The pickup strips are secured by a small screw, one on each side.

The above picture shows the pickup strip removed from the motor bogie. This can be replaced by wire pickups as shown (if using Gibson wheelsets with plastic centres), as the pickup strip isn't long enough to contact the outer rim of the wheel. The pickup strips can be retained if using Jackson metal wheels, but flexibility may be an issue, causing intermittant pickup.

The motor bogie shown with replacement brass wire (0.45mm) pickups. It is important to remember that if using the original Bachmann pickup strips, then a dead short will occur with standard pinpoint axles, unless they are isolated from the PCB.

If using standard pinpoint wheelsets (Gibson type shown), the drive gear will need to be opened out with a 2mm drill, and then it will be a snug fit on the new axle. The 'pinpoints' will need to be removed and the axle ends de-burred, before the wheels are re-fitted, as the 'pinpoints' are not required.

The replacement motor bogie wheelsets seen assembled with the inboard bushes in place, and the back-to-backs set to EM

The white lines show where the brake rigging needs to be removed, so that the EM gauge wheelsets can be fitted. Even careful use of a sharp knife may dislodge the brake hangers from the bogie frame, so extra care needs to be exercised. The first time this was carried out, some of the hangers broke away and it took ages fiddling around trying to glue them back on.

The new wheelsets can now be fitted and the pickup wires adjusted so that they just touch the inside rim of the tyre. It is important that the pickup wires do not come into contact with the bushes or axle.

The bogie frame is shown re-fitted, and it is important to make sure the brake hangers are free of the wheels (some tweaking required). The dropper wires can then be soldered onto the PCB, the drive shaft fitted, and the motor bogie secured back into place.

The non powered bogie also needs the brake rigging removing, and the pickup strips are retained purely as pinpoint bearings. The electrical connection which rubs on the PCB has been removed to prevent shorting. Two pieces of copperclad paxolin can be seen glued underneath, either side of the bogie pivot hole.

The non powered bogie is shown re-assembled with the 0.45mm brass wire pickups soldered in place, and then tweaked so they come into contact with the wheel rims. Dropper wires are soldered to the copperclad, and to the PCB.

I have found this method to be the best way to acheive an EM conversion on the class 108 on a low budget, and the results have proved to be excellent. Definately not one for the faint hearted though, as this 00 gauge model tries its best to stay as one!!!!!